Traditional Backstrap Weaving - in depth

 

 SET UP: Creating the Warp - Warping

1. Set up two clamps (long end up) the chosen distance apart. (Finished length + waste/fringe + 12-25% draw-in and shrinkage)
2. Make a slip knot in the end of the warp yarn and slide it over one clamp
3. Wrap a figure 8 around the clamp poles the number warp threads needed

(one end to the other = one warp thread)

4.   Use a slip knot to finish

5.   Place Lease Sticks into each side of the figure 8. (Use your fingers to open the figure 8) then tie the opposite ends of the lease sticks together, trapping the figure 8 between the sticks.)

6. Tie all yarns at each post end together - use slip knots but tie them tight.

Now, A narrow Traditional Backstrap setup can be done between the clamps.  (If a Rigid heddle will be used, go to #7)

Look at the lease sticks. One set of threads is coming up from below while the other set is coming over the top and going below. The ones coming from below will become the threads on string heddles. The ones coming over the top will have the warping bar slid in-between the two layers.

Create the String Heddle Bar: 

Strings will cradle each thread that is coming up from below.

Make string heddles by tying a thin strong thread around a book or your phone. One string loop(heddle) for each thread coming from below.

Pick up one string heddle “loop”. Hold one end around your thumb then lift the edge thread and slide the loop under this thread. Join the ends, give them a half twist and slide the ends over your pinky.

Continue in this manner, one thread at a time, until all threads coming up from below have been cradled.

Carefully slide all the loop ends on your pinky onto the waiting dowel and secure the scrap yarn over them

Installing the Warping rod dowel or cylinder 

This is placed between the string heddle bar and the coil. It may be easier to put in the coil before the warping bar.

Look at the lease sticks again. The threads that are coming over the lease sticks will go over the warping rod. Place the lease stick on its side opening a shed (hole) between top and bottom threads. Slip the desired warping rod through this shed. Secure it with scrap yarn and half hitches. It’s also helpful to tie additional scrap and inch or so in from the edge to keep the warp from slipping over the side of the bar.

Installing the Coil

Add a thin dowel (chop stick) behind the warping bar location. It’s easier to put this in before inserting the warping bar. It helps stabilize the warp and keep your weaving from corrugating.  You will need some slack in the warp to do this. Either move one clamp inwards a bit, or wait until you are setup with your backstrap belt.

Starting on either side of the warp, 

take one thread from the top and one from the bottom. 

Wrap them around the coil rod. 

Continue in this manner to wrap threads around the coil until all threads are incorporated.

Keep this coil behind the warping rod a few inches. It will also help with thread tension. If one is loose, pull it to the back side of the coil. The coil will also help spread the threads out. It gives you control of your warp. The coil should run parallel to the warping rod, front and rear rods.

- - - - - -

So the String Heddles are set up on one side of the lease sticks.

The warping rod is installed on the opposite side of the lease sticks 

The Coil is installed behind the warping rod. It is at the far end of the warp.

Now place the front rod that the backstrap will attach to. Run it through the end of the warp closest to you. Do the same for the rear rod, running it through the warp (where it went around the clamp post) at the far end of the warp. If the warp is wide, take out the scrap yarn that held the ends together. 

Place scrap yarn across the front and back rods to keep the warp in place. 

Use half hitches to secure.

Place the back rod over the over the door hook - use a rope secured to both ends of the rear rod if necessary. 

Sit in your chair. 

Position it so the warp will be under a bit of tension.

Put on your back strap and wrap the loops around the front rod.

For Rigid Heddle Setup

If the warp is long, finger crochet it together up to the lease sticks which should be @2’ from the near end of the warp. Secure it with scrap through the last crochet loop and around the rest of the warp.

Clip the ends off the near end of the warp so they may be threaded.

Find the center thread (inspect the lease sticks to do this) and spread the warp to the right and left of the heddle. 

Set your heddle up using a clamp on its side to hold it upright.

Place the heddle  between you and the warp

Find the center hole or slot on the heddle. It’s usually marked.

Pass the center thread through the center hole or slot. Pull it through 8” or more.

Using the thread order on the lease sticks (one up, one down…) thread the heddle. Slot to hole to slot… going out from the center until all threads are threaded.

After every 6-8 threads, gather them and make a slip knot to secure them until tie up.

Setup for weaving

Place a dowel through the rear warp where the warp met the clamp post.

Secure the yarns on the dowels so they can’t escape. (Using scrap yarn, place a slip knot over one end, then add a half hitch, take the scrap over your warp to the other end of the dowel and secure it using half hitches.)

Attach a sling to both ends of the rear rod.

Make slip knots going over each end of one dowel. 

With an overhand knot, make a loop in the center of the sling.

Place the loop over the over door hook or other stationary object

Bring the rest of the warp (with the lease sticks) across the table.

Place an “over the door hanger” or use one of your clamps at the edge of table ( protective cloth beneath) or hook up to a bed frame, door knob, trailer hitch, tree, railing - get creative!

Place a chair at the farthest end of the warp with the dowel and string heddles and belt in easy reach. Using another long dowel, prepare another scrap of yarn with a slip knot over one end. Slide the close end of the warp over the dowel and secure the scrap across the fibers. (No twists in the warp)

If necessary, slide the cardboard cylinder/dowel @1’ back from the front edge of the weaving, and the lease sticks @4-6” behind the cylinder (warping bar). It needs to be within reach for the next step.

Sit in the chair. Put the weaving belt behind you with the loops accessible on each end. Place a loop around each side of the dowel in front of you. You are now part of the loom!

Spread the threads on your forward bar evenly across the bar leaving a one thread space in-between each.

Install Coil Rod (see above) Once the coil rod is installed, you may remove the lease sticks if you want.

Setup Complete!

Wind your shuttle. When full, pull the end through the hole in the shuttle. When you drop your shuttle, guaranteed at some point in time, you will - this will keep the whole thing from unwinding.

Learn how to Change sheds

Warping rod shed: when the warping rod and string Heddle are together, the warping rod shed opens.

String Heddle Shed: push the warping bar back away from the string heddle. The string heddle should be @6” away from the edge of the weaving edge. 

Pull straight up on the string heddle rod. If threads are sticking, use your beater and beat the warp between the string heddles and warping bar.

Changing back to Warping Rod shed: pull the warping rod to just behind the String heddle rod. (Do not touch the string heddle rod). The warping shed will pop open.

Begin Weaving:

Start with either shed open.

Use your beater to keep the shed open. Slide it in the shed and turn on its side.

Slide one long thin cardboard strip into the first shed. 

Remove beater.

Change sheds. Slide the beater in to hold shed open.

Slide in 2nd cardboard strip.

Repeat one or two more times to even out threads and determine width.

Run the shuttle through the shed leaving a tail long enough to bring back through the shed plus a couple edges.. Bring it in close to the dowel. 

Remove beater 

Row two: change shed, slide in beater and beat. Bring the tail through this shed being careful not to pull too tightly. Next bring the shuttle through. Remove beater.

row 3: change shed, slip in beater. Beat. Fix weft thread at edge (the thread on the shuttle) if necessary. Pass the shuttle and let the thread create a 30* angle across the warp. Remove the beater, closing the shed.

Row 4: Change shed, slip in beater, beat. Pull the beater straight down - horizontal to the front rod. This allows enough slack in the weft so the edges will not be drawn in.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for the rest of the project.

Shortening the Warp

As you weave, The fell (front edge of the weaving) gets farther and farther away. To shorten the distance and keep the weaving comfortable the fell must be brought back in towards your body. Unhook the weaving from your belt. Take a 2nd long dowel from your kit. Place the dowel under the first bar (where the warp is connected) and roll UNDER and away from you until the fell is again close to the front bar. To reconnect the backstrap belt, wrap the loop around the top dowel end on both sides. Loop it up close to your body or it will unwrap itself.

If you are doing a band, you may switch over to a band clamp at this point.  

Take the front rod (dowel) off.

The hooks face in - that’s where you attach your back-strap loops)

Bring the band over the top, 

down and back up in-between the two pieces of wood 

the tail end falls over the front of the clamp. 

Connect to your back-strap and put some pressure on it.

The band clamp allows for quick and easy shortening of the band as you work.  

Band Clamp: holes on left board are larger than where the hooks attach on the back board. Easily made. @6” across.

Ending the weave

After throwing the shuttle on the 2nd to last row, 

Slip a scrap yarn that when doubled over will extend out both sides of the weaving through the shed next to the weft thread. 

The end with the loop on the side goes where the shuttle will come out after the next pass.

Change sheds, beat, pass the shuttle. 

If a hemstitch will be used for the finish, leave a tail 4 widths of the weaving plus a bit and clip the weft. 

Pass a couple inches through the scrap yarn loop.

Pull the ends of the loop. Be careful the weft is t pulled out of the loop!

This will pull the weft back through the warp, locking the weaving in place so it won’t unravel.

Wet finish should be exactly the way your finished item will be washed and dried.  Sample first and keep careful records!

Be sure to use a steam iron and block your work.

I often dry flat on a towel.

Finishing

There are many ways to finish.

You may want a fringe. Just tie overhand knots using the exposed warp threads

Sewn hem: run two rows of straight stitch near the end on the weaving. Then fold over, or double fold and machine or hand stitch the edge.

There is a lovely edge finish called Hemstitching

Thread the yarn tail. Onto your tapestry needle and bring it over 4 ends than then down between those ends and the rest of the warp. Pass your needle behind these 4 warp ends and through the loop that’s been created by the start of the tail. Pull tight. Repeat across.

Books

You do not need the “looms” they are talking about. Your backstrap loom can be used for all of the techniques shown in these two books. The first is mainly for balanced weaves and the second for Warp faced bands.

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom by Syne Mitchell

The Weavers Inkle Pattern Directory by Anne Dixon

Bands are also called inkles. As for the inkle loom, yes I have one that I built. I learned how to use it. I don’t like it. I find it even slower and oxy to use, unless… There is no place to anchor the back end of my weaving. Then I will use it to hold my weaving, but I use a little rigid heddle or cards on it, so my advise is: don’t waste your time or money

If you need a cheat sheet for changing sheds, print this out and use it while you weave.

Changing Sheds

1. Pass the Shuttle
2. Pinky in weft loop, pull pinky toward you until weft meets weaving edge
3. (Balanced weave) 30-45* angle on weft through weaving
4. Pinch with thumb and index finger at edge, pull. 
5. Remove beater
6. Change shed: Either - push Warp Rod away and pull up string heddle rod, OR pull warping rod toward you
7. Replace Beater
8. Beat - use both hands. Keep the weaving horizontal with the front rod.
9. Gently push beater away  and turn on its side to hold the shed open.