Card Weaving How To

 This ancient art has been traced to Scandinavia where an archeological dig found the remains of a card weaving in progress strapped between the masts of a ship. Very complex and beautiful patterns can be produced by this method.

A stack of square cards are the loom and from 2 - 4 yarns are woven to produce a strong band. The more cards used, the wider the band, and a heavier the fiber will also be wider and heavier.  

I have found 2” cards work beautifully for fine yarn - specifically #20 tatting cotton or finer. 8/4 rug warp - which makes beautiful belts should be woven on 3 1/2” cards. The wider cards have a larger shed which makes the heavier fiber easier to work with. See Threading the cards below. It’s the same for all techniques. Follow the warping diagram.

You can easily make your own cards. Decide on the size desired, save cereal boxes, frozen pizza boxes… uncorrugated cardboard is the key. Measure and cut; round the corners a little bit and punch holes in the corners (all in the same locations on each card. Place letters on the cards. Sometimes it’s helpful to number the cards also when working patterns, but this isn’t always necessary. When working brocade, card numbers may be needed to follow patterns, but the lettered corners are not needed.

A turn of the cards, either forward or backward opens a new shed to pass the shuttle through. Don’t forget to pass the shuttle! Each turn of the cards also creates a twist. Some patterns create a neutral twist while others will need to be carefully untwisted every so often. I find laying the back rod down on a table and having a second empty rod laying next to it works well. I take off one group of threads, untwist it and place it on the waiting rod. When all are untwisted, I gently raise the second rod a bit and slide the original back in.

The cards can be threaded from the front (Z threading) or the back (S threading). As the weaving progresses, a slant occurs to the woven threads depending on the threading direction and the card turn direction.

	Z	S
Forward turn	Left Slant	Right Slant
Backward turn	Right Slant	Left Slant

If all cards are threaded Z or all S the weaving will want to twist into a spiral. Wet finish (hand wash in hot or cold water as it will be treated in the future) and a. hot steam iron when blocking will lay it flat again. If the left half of the cards are threaded S and the left half Z, the weaving will lie flat. There is also the possibility of threading SZSZ… or SSZZSSZZ as in Sulawesi Card Weaving which produces beautiful complex patterns.

Many Easy patterns are formed using 4 turns forward and 4 turns back. This is a neutral weave and the twist from the four forward turns is automatically untwisted with the four backward turns. These are very easy to weave.

Double faced patterns can be produced by threading one color in A and B and a second contrasting color in C and D. Each pattern row is repeated twice, or written out twice. 

Brocade is also done with card weaving.  A normal pass of the shuttle is done, and then a secondary shed is formed by counting threads from the layer visible and passing a secondary color and shuttle.. 

In all patterns I’ve worked with, the patterns begin with AD on the top.

Sulawesi Weaving comes from an island in the Pacific Ocean. It is the most complex weaving I’ve ever done. 2, 3, or 4 yarns can be used in any of the patterns. The pattern has one thread; the accent (which travels either side of the pattern and as pebbles inside the background net) has two threads of the same color contrasting with the pattern color and the background’s one thread is yet another color contrasting with the pattern color. It produces a net.

Possible scenarios:

2 threads = pattern and background

3 threads = pattern and accent

4 threads = pattern accent and background

 Notice the pattern repeats every 4 columns. So patterns need to be 4, 8, 12, 16……squares wide.

Patterns are worked with multiples of 4 cards and if a pattern has 12 threads, 24 cards will be used as each card is worked doubled. SSZZSSZZSSZZ

SS turns as one as does ZZ. Patterns are often made for 12 (24 cards) or 16 threads (32 cards) with borders added to each side.

Warping diagram: 

To keep the cards in order; before threading, color the edges of half your cards. Then when you thread, use colored cards for the S’s and plain cards for the Z’s.  Now you will be able to see what you are doing.

The patterns are made on a grid which is further divided by making a diagonal line connecting the squares. 17 lines for a 16 thread pattern, 13 lines for a 12 thread pattern. 

Threading Cards 

A threading board is very helpful. Place your colored yarns each in a container on the floor. Clamp the board to the table and run a thread through each hole. It will keep the threads untangled and at your fingertips. Make it at least 14” long with the holes at least 3” apart. Remember to leave room at one end for the clamp. 

The easiest method I have found for threading the cards is to set up 2 clamps the warp length apart. Tie an overhand knot in the ends of the first two threads for card 1 (AB) then place the knot around the post on the far clamp. Return to the first clamp and extend both threads about 1 1/2 “ beyond the post and clip them. Thread AB holes with the first two threads. Then continue the process being careful to thread in the correct side of the card. All threading for a card must be either S or Z. If you make a mistake and thread one hole in the wrong direction, the card will not turn.

Once the card is threaded; on the far end, tie all four threads in an overhand knot where the original knots were made. The close end I tie the four threads in a small slip knot so that I can tie onto the  front rod of my backstrap belt. To keep the assembly controllable, I use a short skewer @6” or a bit less) poked in a hole on a board. When the process for the card is complete I place the A hole over the skewer. Also as each card is complete, I keep the ends and cards even. When all cards are done and all has been double and triple checked, take a piece of scrap yarn and tie all ends together on the far end, or, as you finish a card, slip two threads over a rod at the far end of your work space.

Always keep your cards under control. Tie them together; use some kind of keeper (skewer, nail, knitting stitch holder, large diaper pin). Use this tool anytime your weaving is not under tension and anytime you must walk away for a bit.

The pattern is drawn on the original grid. Once complete, draw the pattern in red. Then a blue line is drawn across to indicate the starting row. If a pattern is in the center of the starting row and the blue line touches it, move the starting line up or down a row. Place a blue line every 4 rows. Weaving begins on AD.

Then: 

Row 1- lightly colored in the little squares that have a pattern line going through them.

 

Row 2 - lightly color in the little squares that don’t have a pattern line going through them.

Row 3 like row 1; Row 4 like row 2

Dark squares mean turn toward you (backwards)

White squares mean turn away from you (forward)

 One of my original patterns

Keep a scrap piece of paper beside your pattern and jot down which row you just completed. If you get lost, refer to the threading (warping diagram). That should bring you back into focus.

I like to start from one end and turn the cards along with moving them into two groups. The forward turns go farther away from me and the backward turns go right in front of me.

Before I pass the shuttle, I gently maneuver two fingers between the forward and backward cards to open the shed. Be sure the threads that should be on top are and vise versa. Spread your fingers apart to further encourage the threads to go where they need to be. You can even check between cards to be sure the forward cards sheds have opened all. The way to the fell (line of weaving). It’s far better to take the time to double check that all is correct than have to rip back!

Each square represents two cards (color the edges of half of the cards before threading. Use two cards with color, then two without to keep straight what you are turning)

Each row represents two turns. So after passing the shuttle, your cards are ready for their second turn. Turn the cards farthest from you forward and the cards closest to you backward. Then bring all cards back together. AD will be on top when you reach each blue line.

Many thanks go out to www.sagawoolcraft.com for the Sulawesi technique. At this site she has many patterns, some for just 16 cards total. And all the instructions. 

pinterest.com has many beautiful patterns. I have a few original patterns posted here for you. Also, Check out my Pinterest page, Deborah Peters. Look under Fiber Arts for Card Weaving Easy.