Building a foldable loom

Amazing how fast time passes! I’ve been weaving for quite a few months now and loving it. When I decided I wanted to weave, I searched for loom plans. Finally, I took dimensions and ideas from a few different looms and designed this one.  Why folding? So it's portable and you can go and weave with friends or go to a class, or go weave in the woods or at the beach...….

 Before you begin, READ ALL THE INSTRUCTIONS! You need a thorough understanding of how the loom works before you start cutting wood!

Also, if you can afford to buy a loom, it will save you many hours of work. There again, if you enjoy fiddling with tools and such, here ya go!

Although you can weave using just heddle rods on the heddle rod supports, a rigid heddle is easier to work with. I got my rigid heddle from a wonderful lady in Russia who sells on etsy. Here is her link:

https://etsy.me/2nvLGFl

It is a 125 hole rigid heddle made from birch plywood. Also get several of her large shuttles. They are very nice to use and are inexpensive. From her address in Russia to South Texas it only took three weeks, and the quality of her products are very high! It’s wonderful to use a wooden heddle. Note: this heddle is for fine fibers, not bulky or worsted weights. It is just over 12” long, so the frame we are going to build is @15” wide inside.

My looms are built mainly from scrap materials, so dig around and see what you can find.

It is very possible to weave without the rigid heddle, and complex weaves can be made using more than 2 heddle rods. That information saves you money. The rigid heddle makes the setup easier though.

To build the loom you will need:

1 - 12”rigid heddle, or 2 or more heddle rods (3/8” or 1/4” dowels) heddle rods need to be 17 1/4" long

Frame (3/8" or 1/2" plywood)

2 - 1" x 2" lumber - (cut 1 - 15 1/2", cut 1 - 15") these are the braces that hold the loom together. They get 2 screws in each end. It is very important to get these lined up exactly to keep the loom square.

1 - 4' x 1" dowel (cut 2 pieces - 17", 16 1/4")

Heddle supports (5 gallon paint bucket stir sticks work great!) 9 1/2" x 1 1/2"

optional: heddle rod holders - 20* angle on one end. From point to top = 6 1/4"
on flat end leave 2 ears @ 1/4" high and cut out between to hold heddle rods while weaving (see picture)

1 rigid heddle holder rod - 3/8” or 1/4” dowel x 15 3/4" long (tied on to the rigid heddle so it will hang from the heddle supports.) IF USING A RIGID HEDDLE

Lief rods (cut 1 -15", cut 1 - 14 3/4") these are connected by nylon string to the rollers. This is what you connect your weaving threads to.

Beater (stir stick or floor trim or other thin strong wood @ 16 - 18" x 1/2"-1" and sanded on one side)

Pick-up stick (nice to have 2 or 3 of these) (3/4" - 1 1/4" wide x 14 1/2" long x @3/8" thick)

And at least one shuttle. (A dowel can also be used as a shuttle - @15 ")

Heavy Nylon string for connecting the lief rods to the rollers and for creating string heddles if using heddle rods without a rigid heddle.

4- 1 3/4” #6 bolts and wing nuts

10 - 1 1/2"- 1 3/4" screws

2 - 3/4" -1" #6 bolts and wing nuts

For the parts of the frame you will cut 4 pieces. 2 for the front, and 2 for the back.

Make a pattern:
these 2 pieces form the front of the frame
1. Draw a line 12.5" long. (this line is the top of the frame)

2. With a compass set to 1.75" Put the point at the end of the line and draw a circle.

3. Do the same on the other end of the line.

4. With a straight edge, draw a line from the bottom of the circle at one end to the bottom of the circle on the other end. (this edge is the bottom of the frame)

5. Where the original line meets the circle, round it out to make a gentle curve. see picture.

6. Cut out 2 of these. Be sure the center of the circle is marked.

For the back of the frame, repeat the above steps except, draw the line 8.5" long.

Cut the 4 pieces out of either 3/8 or 1/2" plywood.
Drill a hole through all 4 pieces in the exact center of the circles.
Depending on the size of the bolts and screws you are using, the holes on the two ends may be different sizes.

Check the picture.

One end of each piece will be in the center where the loom folds. This end will get a bolt and wing nut.
The other end of each piece will hold the 1" dowel. This end will get either a screw hole, or a 1" hole drilled through it.

Use a bit that allows the bolt to easily pass through. You don't want a lot of give, but the frame pieces must be able to easily slide past each other in order to fold the loom up. Same for the screw end. The screw acts as an axel and allows the dowel to roll.

Peg Holes: My loom was the prototype, so these pictures show 6 peg holes around the 1" center hole. The pegs  hold the warp tension. I found the 6 holes are not enough. Instead, get some large rivets  and drill 12 holes the size of the rivet around the 1" hole. You will need to shorten the rivet to protect fingers and fiber. I used a cutting disk on my dremel while holding the rivet with a pliers. Then just sand the cut end after it cools. You'll need 2 rivet pegs; one for the front and one for the back. I made a couple extra incase they get lost or used as a cat toy...

To mark the peg holes: before drilling the 1" hole, draw a ring around the center point out @3/4" from center. Then, using a ruler which crosses the center point, mark a point on either side of center on the line. Then mark 2 more points with the ruler perpendicular to the first set of 2. Then you can eye it to divide each space between points with 2 more points.

At this point I want to stress that the loom MUST be square. If it is not, your weaving won't be either!

So when drilling holes, drill through both front frame pieces at the same time (clamp them together so they can't move); then drill through both back frame pieces at the same time, etc. A small drill press is very handy.

Drill a starter hole in one end of both dowels. This is where the screw goes.

Wait to drill the hole through the other end of the dowel where the peg goes through. That is your tensioning device. Don't drill that until you have the frame together so you can see where to put the peg hole. The peg has to be out from the frame @1/8" so that it will be stopped by the rivet peg.

Assembly: Start with the long front pieces. Drill the starter holes for the frame supports. then screw the longest 1x2 into place between the two front pieces.

2. Do the same with the 2 back frame pieces (the shorter 2). Use the shorter 1x2 and after drilling starter holes, screw it into place.

3. Now connect front to back with a bolt and wing nut. Obviously the front goes on the outside and the back goes on the inside.

4. Make the Rigid Heddle support - even if you're using heddle rods, you will use this. The cut outs are large enough for the dowel to easily be placed into them. The positions are Up, Neutral, and Down. Drill the holes, then cut the opening slots and sand. Notice the angle on the slots. The dowel must not slip out of the holder slots.

5. Drill the hole that connects to the center bolt. It is located almost at the 2" mark of the tape measure in the above picture. Notice it is not in the middle. The hole at the 3/4" mark on the tape measure is the hole that locks the loom into working position.

6. Most Important Line!  When weaving, the loom sits in your lap and sets on the edge of a table. That's what the cut-outs are for on the bottom of the back pieces. The front and back pieces are locked into an angle.

Lay the loom on its side: from the bottom of the front side of the loom to the center of the back side is 6". That is where it must be locked into place. So the second bolt is placed so that it goes through  front, back and the rigid heddle support. Note the rigid heddle support is perpendicular to the floor when the loom is in weaving position. A picture is worth a thousand words, or several pictures.

7. The Dowels can now be inserted in the 1" holes. Sand the holes a little bigger if necessary and don't screw them in until you put the tension pegs in. the pegs should stick out of the dowel @3/4" on either side and be @1/8" away from the outside of the loom. When you insert the screw to the opposite end, leave it loose enough for the dowel to turn freely.

8. Finally, if you are going to install the Heddle Rod holders, they sit on the cross pieces (1 x 2's) of the loom. They do not have to be tight as the tension of the rods will hold them upright, so one small bolt and wing nut in each is all they need.

Heddle rods, beater and pickup sticks:

Here are a couple more pictures to help with assembly.

Sand all the parts very smooth. No fun when the fiber gets caught on something! Check out YouTube for great teaching videos! Evenually, I'll get some out there too, but no sense recreating the wheel.

Have Fun!

Let me know if I made any blunders in my explanation!

Double weave tube band

This is the first tube weaving I’ve done. I had hoped to do pickup with the bottom layer, but it was too tight and just fought me, so, I decided to try soumak, which is a topical application done just on the top layer with another thread and color. Again, first time I’ve used that technique, and now that I look back at the directions from Syne Mitchell’s book, “Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom”, I see that I didn’t do it quite right, but it looks pretty on here anyway. I’m also looking at doing clasped weft technique next with gold on one shuttle and off white on the other and creating a diagonal. That will also be a first time using clasped weft. It’s interesting using these techniques along with keeping my plain weave foundation going underneath.

The sequence for the plain weave tube is: 

heddle 1 up, 

rigid heddle holes up, 

heddle 2 up,

rigid heddle holes down.

I’ll add more to this post as the piece progresses. Intended use is straps for another summer blouse.

This is very slow weaving. Very intricate.  Using #10 crochet cotton I had a lot of shrinkage. Thought there would be enough for the bans and a small pouch. After wet finishing, there’s just enough for the band on the blouse. Better to shrink now than later!

Here’s the finished piece.

Weaving double width on a rigid heddle loom

this is my first attempt at weaving double width on my homemade, 12”folding loom. There will be much experimentation with weaving double as I’ve seen beautiful motifs done this way (the weaving doesn’t open up, but it forms a thick beautiful fabric, and I want to create rich natural fabrics covered with nature’s designs. Birds, fish, turtles, flowers...

For this first attempt, I want to create a bag, aka a tube with the bottom closed. I’m still working with crochet cotton as I’ve not yet used up my stash and refuse to start buying weaving fibers until I do!  So, for the warp I’m using #5 artiste 100% acrylic crochet thread - hm, I thought I bought all cotton crochet thread x in 40 curry, and for the weft I’ll be using 100% poly that I punched in Progresso Mexico as it has proven itself to be a beautiful weaving fiber. It’s very fine, so I may weave a double weft. We’ll see as I progress.

As usual, I don’t want to follow directions which have you warp up two different colors, one for the front, and one for th back as I want the finished bag to be the same all the way around.  So to keep my threads separate, I warped 8.5” on my 13 dent rigid heddle heddle and inserted a pickup stick before returning with the second layer of threads. In all there will be 92 threads across per layer. I’m using the quick warping method, which is: tie the beginning warp thread to the rear apron Rod, then pull the thread through the first slit designated for the project out to a clamp on a table and around. This puts two threads through the slit. Return and bring the thread over and then under the apron Rod and back to the next slit in the heddle...

This is what it looks like from the back.

Threading and tie up would be a mess with all the ends together, so I inserted a pickup stick between the two layers,  passed a contrasting thread through and tied it off. Now I can safely take the top layer off so I can thread the hole in the bottom layer. Looking at this, I think I should have tied off and threaded the hole before adding the top layer of threads. Yes, that would have been easier, but if I clip the big loop of the bottom layer, I can take one end and starting from the right, put one end through
the hole to the right. Then take the two threads that are still connected from the top layer that are in



the same hole and pull them from the bundle- they get tossed over the top. The final thread in the slot









gets moved to the right and out of the way. Now, pull the top threads for the next slot out of the bundle and flip them over the top. Take one bottom end and thread it through the hole. Take the final
thread to the right. This works. Threads to the top for top layer, and threads to the right for bottom layer.

The pickup stick divider had to be removed, so I just re-inserted it after threading all the holes for the bottom layer.. now to do the tie-up.

I had wanted to weave both layers together for about an inch, but the weaving had other ideas. I think my warp is too large for this 13 dent heddle, but it’s the only one I have, so.... after some thought and trial and error, I placed my top layer on two heddle rods and fabricated heddle rods supports which I attached to my looms frame behind the main heddle support. 

I also found the warp not wanting to pass each other in the slots, so I insert an another heddle Rod 

between the heddle rods to simplify separating sheds. Sometimes I have to insert a second heddle Rod after doing the first pick to get my shed to open. I found there was no need for the original pickup stick between the upper and lower layers once the heddle rods were in place, but don’t remove them prior to that! 

So the sequence is:

1.  Begin with the rigid heddle in the up position and the heddle rods up. Pass shuttle. Beat.

2.  Drop the back heddle rods out of use, possibly beat again to help separate sheds. If the shed still won’t separate, take a thin pickup stick and pass it between the rigid heddle and heddle rod holder and below the heddle rod closest to you - the one still on the rod holder. Then you can push it down and the shed will separate. The rigid heddle should be in the down position. I’m thinking some things are just better done on a 4 shaft loom. This is tedious and persnickety. It is doable though, but get out your patience! Pass the shuttle, beat.

3.  Put the first heddle rod down, the back heddle rod up and the pickup stick forward (right behind the rigid heddle) this will force heddle rod #1’s threads down and open a nice shed. (Be sure to remove the skinny pickup stick) rigid heddle is in the down position. Pass the shuttle, beat.

4.  Both heddle rods up, pickup stick pushed back, rigid heddle down. The final shed is the one on the bottom.

So you start with the top shed of the bottom layer, then do both sheds of the top layer, and end with the lower shed of the bottom layer. Easy! Check the opening from the side to be sure both layers are there and not mixing!

The lower shed is the final step.

See the opening! 

Needle tatting terms and first little project

Been a long time since I’ve been out here, but I think this is the perfect place to post information and patterns and just what I’m up too! (It’s always something new and different.) so, to support my YouTube channel, DPC Fiber Arts, and the video on reading a pattern I’m listing common tatting abbreviations and the pattern for a small first motif using the ring and chain we’ve been learning from my series of videos. Here’s the youtube link to my tutorial to learn needle tatting:
DPC Fiber Arts: Learn Needle Tatting

First, the basic abbreviations:
ch.   chain
cl r.  close ring
ds.   double stitch, also called a larks head knot
j.      join, often followed by instructions on where to join to.
k.     overhand knot
p.     picot
R /r. ring often the R is a large ring, and the r. is a small ring
rw.   reverse work
t.      turn, same as reverse work
Josephine ring or chain - formed by making only the first half (or second half) of the double stitch

For a complete list, this site is a great resource: abctattingpatterns

First little motif pattern. 

   

This little flower motif was made from #10 crochet cotton and a #5/0 needle. The center with the  open circle can be filled with French knots or a bead or? when you attach the tatting.  I'll show you how to incorporate beads into your work at a later date.

First Little Flower Motif

1^stR. - 3ds, p, 3ds, lg p, 3 ds p, 3ds, cl r, k, rw.

Ch- 4 ds, p, 4 ds, k, rw 

*R - 3 ds, j to first p of first r, 3 ds, j to center p of 1^str, 3ds, p, 3ds, dcl r, k, rw.

Ch - 4 ds, p, 4 ds, k, rw.

Repeat from * 2 more times.

Last R – 3 ds, j to first p of first r, 3 ds, j to center p of 1^str, 3 ds j to last p of 1^str, 3ds, cl r, k, rw

Ch - 4 ds, j all central p leaving the same amt. of thread as your other p, 4 ds, k, rw.

Finishing: pull needle through base of first r and ch, k, pull ends back through work and clip ends.

This motif was done with the same thread, but a 3/0 needle. A bit big for this thread. I also made a Josephine chain with one large picot, then brought the tail back through the entire Josephine ring and all the chains going around the rings. That helped clean up the floppies from using a larger needle. The chains were modified by adding a small picot on either side of the larger central picot.

The modified pattern reads like this:

First R. - 3ds, p, 3ds, lg p , 3ds, p, 3ds, cl r, k, rw.

Ch. 4ds, sm p, lg p, sm p, 4ds, k, rw.

* R - 3ds, j to 1st p of previous ring, 3ds, j to lg. p. of first r, 3ds, p, 3ds, cl r, k rw.

Ch. 4ds, sm p, lg p, sm p, 4ds, k, rw.

Repeat 2 more times from *

Last R- 3ds, j to 1st p of previous r, 3ds, j to large central p, 3ds, j to last p of first r, 3 ds, cl r, k, rw.

Last ch -  4ds, sm p, lg p, sm p, 4ds, k, rw.

pull needle through base of first r and ch, k.

Josephine knot:  20, p, 12, k, finish.

(remember, the Josephine knot is simply the first half of the ds repeated.)

Play around with modifications - groups of picots, lengths of picots, number of rings, lengths of chains and sizes of rings.

Have fun!