Leaf and pine cone card weaving patterns

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Narrow leaf card weaving pattern

 This could be a border, or a narrow little band..

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Violets Card Weaving Pattern

At my childhood home, below the shrub in the front yard grew the prettiest little violets. I’ve captured their essence here for us to weave. Enjoy!. Simple 4 Forward. 4 Backward on 28 cards

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Card Weaving How To

 This ancient art has been traced to Scandinavia where an archeological dig found the remains of a card weaving in progress strapped between the masts of a ship. Very complex and beautiful patterns can be produced by this method.

A stack of square cards are the loom and from 2 - 4 yarns are woven to produce a strong band. The more cards used, the wider the band, and a heavier the fiber will also be wider and heavier.  

I have found 2” cards work beautifully for fine yarn - specifically #20 tatting cotton or finer. 8/4 rug warp - which makes beautiful belts should be woven on 3 1/2” cards. The wider cards have a larger shed which makes the heavier fiber easier to work with. See Threading the cards below. It’s the same for all techniques. Follow the warping diagram.

You can easily make your own cards. Decide on the size desired, save cereal boxes, frozen pizza boxes… uncorrugated cardboard is the key. Measure and cut; round the corners a little bit and punch holes in the corners (all in the same locations on each card. Place letters on the cards. Sometimes it’s helpful to number the cards also when working patterns, but this isn’t always necessary. When working brocade, card numbers may be needed to follow patterns, but the lettered corners are not needed.

A turn of the cards, either forward or backward opens a new shed to pass the shuttle through. Don’t forget to pass the shuttle! Each turn of the cards also creates a twist. Some patterns create a neutral twist while others will need to be carefully untwisted every so often. I find laying the back rod down on a table and having a second empty rod laying next to it works well. I take off one group of threads, untwist it and place it on the waiting rod. When all are untwisted, I gently raise the second rod a bit and slide the original back in.

The cards can be threaded from the front (Z threading) or the back (S threading). As the weaving progresses, a slant occurs to the woven threads depending on the threading direction and the card turn direction.

	Z	S
Forward turn	Left Slant	Right Slant
Backward turn	Right Slant	Left Slant

If all cards are threaded Z or all S the weaving will want to twist into a spiral. Wet finish (hand wash in hot or cold water as it will be treated in the future) and a. hot steam iron when blocking will lay it flat again. If the left half of the cards are threaded S and the left half Z, the weaving will lie flat. There is also the possibility of threading SZSZ… or SSZZSSZZ as in Sulawesi Card Weaving which produces beautiful complex patterns.

Many Easy patterns are formed using 4 turns forward and 4 turns back. This is a neutral weave and the twist from the four forward turns is automatically untwisted with the four backward turns. These are very easy to weave.

Double faced patterns can be produced by threading one color in A and B and a second contrasting color in C and D. Each pattern row is repeated twice, or written out twice. 

Brocade is also done with card weaving.  A normal pass of the shuttle is done, and then a secondary shed is formed by counting threads from the layer visible and passing a secondary color and shuttle.. 

In all patterns I’ve worked with, the patterns begin with AD on the top.

Sulawesi Weaving comes from an island in the Pacific Ocean. It is the most complex weaving I’ve ever done. 2, 3, or 4 yarns can be used in any of the patterns. The pattern has one thread; the accent (which travels either side of the pattern and as pebbles inside the background net) has two threads of the same color contrasting with the pattern color and the background’s one thread is yet another color contrasting with the pattern color. It produces a net.

Possible scenarios:

2 threads = pattern and background

3 threads = pattern and accent

4 threads = pattern accent and background

 Notice the pattern repeats every 4 columns. So patterns need to be 4, 8, 12, 16……squares wide.

Patterns are worked with multiples of 4 cards and if a pattern has 12 threads, 24 cards will be used as each card is worked doubled. SSZZSSZZSSZZ

SS turns as one as does ZZ. Patterns are often made for 12 (24 cards) or 16 threads (32 cards) with borders added to each side.

Warping diagram: 

To keep the cards in order; before threading, color the edges of half your cards. Then when you thread, use colored cards for the S’s and plain cards for the Z’s.  Now you will be able to see what you are doing.

The patterns are made on a grid which is further divided by making a diagonal line connecting the squares. 17 lines for a 16 thread pattern, 13 lines for a 12 thread pattern. 

Threading Cards 

A threading board is very helpful. Place your colored yarns each in a container on the floor. Clamp the board to the table and run a thread through each hole. It will keep the threads untangled and at your fingertips. Make it at least 14” long with the holes at least 3” apart. Remember to leave room at one end for the clamp. 

The easiest method I have found for threading the cards is to set up 2 clamps the warp length apart. Tie an overhand knot in the ends of the first two threads for card 1 (AB) then place the knot around the post on the far clamp. Return to the first clamp and extend both threads about 1 1/2 “ beyond the post and clip them. Thread AB holes with the first two threads. Then continue the process being careful to thread in the correct side of the card. All threading for a card must be either S or Z. If you make a mistake and thread one hole in the wrong direction, the card will not turn.

Once the card is threaded; on the far end, tie all four threads in an overhand knot where the original knots were made. The close end I tie the four threads in a small slip knot so that I can tie onto the  front rod of my backstrap belt. To keep the assembly controllable, I use a short skewer @6” or a bit less) poked in a hole on a board. When the process for the card is complete I place the A hole over the skewer. Also as each card is complete, I keep the ends and cards even. When all cards are done and all has been double and triple checked, take a piece of scrap yarn and tie all ends together on the far end, or, as you finish a card, slip two threads over a rod at the far end of your work space.

Always keep your cards under control. Tie them together; use some kind of keeper (skewer, nail, knitting stitch holder, large diaper pin). Use this tool anytime your weaving is not under tension and anytime you must walk away for a bit.

The pattern is drawn on the original grid. Once complete, draw the pattern in red. Then a blue line is drawn across to indicate the starting row. If a pattern is in the center of the starting row and the blue line touches it, move the starting line up or down a row. Place a blue line every 4 rows. Weaving begins on AD.

Then: 

Row 1- lightly colored in the little squares that have a pattern line going through them.

 

Row 2 - lightly color in the little squares that don’t have a pattern line going through them.

Row 3 like row 1; Row 4 like row 2

Dark squares mean turn toward you (backwards)

White squares mean turn away from you (forward)

 One of my original patterns

Keep a scrap piece of paper beside your pattern and jot down which row you just completed. If you get lost, refer to the threading (warping diagram). That should bring you back into focus.

I like to start from one end and turn the cards along with moving them into two groups. The forward turns go farther away from me and the backward turns go right in front of me.

Before I pass the shuttle, I gently maneuver two fingers between the forward and backward cards to open the shed. Be sure the threads that should be on top are and vise versa. Spread your fingers apart to further encourage the threads to go where they need to be. You can even check between cards to be sure the forward cards sheds have opened all. The way to the fell (line of weaving). It’s far better to take the time to double check that all is correct than have to rip back!

Each square represents two cards (color the edges of half of the cards before threading. Use two cards with color, then two without to keep straight what you are turning)

Each row represents two turns. So after passing the shuttle, your cards are ready for their second turn. Turn the cards farthest from you forward and the cards closest to you backward. Then bring all cards back together. AD will be on top when you reach each blue line.

Many thanks go out to www.sagawoolcraft.com for the Sulawesi technique. At this site she has many patterns, some for just 16 cards total. And all the instructions. 

pinterest.com has many beautiful patterns. I have a few original patterns posted here for you. Also, Check out my Pinterest page, Deborah Peters. Look under Fiber Arts for Card Weaving Easy. 

Knots : 

Slip knot: connecting to warping posts, final knot when tying onto  front bar

1. end of thread faces you, 
2. wrap over and around two fingers and toward hand (behind fiber loop being formed), 
3. bring yarn through the loop that’s formed  
4. pull tight

Overhand Knot: joining new warp color when warping the figure 8. 

 This is done at the warping post. Also used to tie off the ends and create fringe 

Create a loop with the end of your yarn(s) facing away from you.

2: Bring the open end of the yarn around to the back and through the loop.

3: Pull tight.

Half Hitch: use 2-3 half hitches to secure scrap yarn to ends of heddle bar to keep warp from coming off. Also used to keep thread from unraveling 

twist the yarn into a loop with the end to the inside

2. Slip the loop over the rod

3. Pull tight

Larks Head #1: one long yarn becomes two on the rear rod

You need 1 piece of yarn and something to attach it to. 

Step 1: Fold your piece of yarn in half and lay it underneath your dowel rod, stick, or whatever you are attaching it too with the loop end up.

Step 2: Bring the open end of the yarn, around, and through the loop above the stick.

Step 3: Pull the yarn all the way through the loop and position where you want it.

Step 4: Pull tight!

Larks head #2 for tying onto front rod, also called Half Bow

https://warpedfibers.com/weaving-knots/ 

1. pull a group of ends over the front rod. Divide it in half. Take one half around the front rod to the right of the group and the other half around the rod to the left of the group.
2. Cross the ends and tie
3. Finish with a slip knot

Traditional Backstrap Weaving - in depth

 

 SET UP: Creating the Warp - Warping

1. Set up two clamps (long end up) the chosen distance apart. (Finished length + waste/fringe + 12-25% draw-in and shrinkage)
2. Make a slip knot in the end of the warp yarn and slide it over one clamp
3. Wrap a figure 8 around the clamp poles the number warp threads needed

(one end to the other = one warp thread)

4.   Use a slip knot to finish

5.   Place Lease Sticks into each side of the figure 8. (Use your fingers to open the figure 8) then tie the opposite ends of the lease sticks together, trapping the figure 8 between the sticks.)

6. Tie all yarns at each post end together - use slip knots but tie them tight.

Now, A narrow Traditional Backstrap setup can be done between the clamps.  (If a Rigid heddle will be used, go to #7)

Look at the lease sticks. One set of threads is coming up from below while the other set is coming over the top and going below. The ones coming from below will become the threads on string heddles. The ones coming over the top will have the warping bar slid in-between the two layers.

Create the String Heddle Bar: 

Strings will cradle each thread that is coming up from below.

Make string heddles by tying a thin strong thread around a book or your phone. One string loop(heddle) for each thread coming from below.

Pick up one string heddle “loop”. Hold one end around your thumb then lift the edge thread and slide the loop under this thread. Join the ends, give them a half twist and slide the ends over your pinky.

Continue in this manner, one thread at a time, until all threads coming up from below have been cradled.

Carefully slide all the loop ends on your pinky onto the waiting dowel and secure the scrap yarn over them

Installing the Warping rod dowel or cylinder 

This is placed between the string heddle bar and the coil. It may be easier to put in the coil before the warping bar.

Look at the lease sticks again. The threads that are coming over the lease sticks will go over the warping rod. Place the lease stick on its side opening a shed (hole) between top and bottom threads. Slip the desired warping rod through this shed. Secure it with scrap yarn and half hitches. It’s also helpful to tie additional scrap and inch or so in from the edge to keep the warp from slipping over the side of the bar.

Installing the Coil

Add a thin dowel (chop stick) behind the warping bar location. It’s easier to put this in before inserting the warping bar. It helps stabilize the warp and keep your weaving from corrugating.  You will need some slack in the warp to do this. Either move one clamp inwards a bit, or wait until you are setup with your backstrap belt.

Starting on either side of the warp, 

take one thread from the top and one from the bottom. 

Wrap them around the coil rod. 

Continue in this manner to wrap threads around the coil until all threads are incorporated.

Keep this coil behind the warping rod a few inches. It will also help with thread tension. If one is loose, pull it to the back side of the coil. The coil will also help spread the threads out. It gives you control of your warp. The coil should run parallel to the warping rod, front and rear rods.

- - - - - -

So the String Heddles are set up on one side of the lease sticks.

The warping rod is installed on the opposite side of the lease sticks 

The Coil is installed behind the warping rod. It is at the far end of the warp.

Now place the front rod that the backstrap will attach to. Run it through the end of the warp closest to you. Do the same for the rear rod, running it through the warp (where it went around the clamp post) at the far end of the warp. If the warp is wide, take out the scrap yarn that held the ends together. 

Place scrap yarn across the front and back rods to keep the warp in place. 

Use half hitches to secure.

Place the back rod over the over the door hook - use a rope secured to both ends of the rear rod if necessary. 

Sit in your chair. 

Position it so the warp will be under a bit of tension.

Put on your back strap and wrap the loops around the front rod.

For Rigid Heddle Setup

If the warp is long, finger crochet it together up to the lease sticks which should be @2’ from the near end of the warp. Secure it with scrap through the last crochet loop and around the rest of the warp.

Clip the ends off the near end of the warp so they may be threaded.

Find the center thread (inspect the lease sticks to do this) and spread the warp to the right and left of the heddle. 

Set your heddle up using a clamp on its side to hold it upright.

Place the heddle  between you and the warp

Find the center hole or slot on the heddle. It’s usually marked.

Pass the center thread through the center hole or slot. Pull it through 8” or more.

Using the thread order on the lease sticks (one up, one down…) thread the heddle. Slot to hole to slot… going out from the center until all threads are threaded.

After every 6-8 threads, gather them and make a slip knot to secure them until tie up.

Setup for weaving

Place a dowel through the rear warp where the warp met the clamp post.

Secure the yarns on the dowels so they can’t escape. (Using scrap yarn, place a slip knot over one end, then add a half hitch, take the scrap over your warp to the other end of the dowel and secure it using half hitches.)

Attach a sling to both ends of the rear rod.

Make slip knots going over each end of one dowel. 

With an overhand knot, make a loop in the center of the sling.

Place the loop over the over door hook or other stationary object

Bring the rest of the warp (with the lease sticks) across the table.

Place an “over the door hanger” or use one of your clamps at the edge of table ( protective cloth beneath) or hook up to a bed frame, door knob, trailer hitch, tree, railing - get creative!

Place a chair at the farthest end of the warp with the dowel and string heddles and belt in easy reach. Using another long dowel, prepare another scrap of yarn with a slip knot over one end. Slide the close end of the warp over the dowel and secure the scrap across the fibers. (No twists in the warp)

If necessary, slide the cardboard cylinder/dowel @1’ back from the front edge of the weaving, and the lease sticks @4-6” behind the cylinder (warping bar). It needs to be within reach for the next step.

Sit in the chair. Put the weaving belt behind you with the loops accessible on each end. Place a loop around each side of the dowel in front of you. You are now part of the loom!

Spread the threads on your forward bar evenly across the bar leaving a one thread space in-between each.

Install Coil Rod (see above) Once the coil rod is installed, you may remove the lease sticks if you want.

Setup Complete!

Wind your shuttle. When full, pull the end through the hole in the shuttle. When you drop your shuttle, guaranteed at some point in time, you will - this will keep the whole thing from unwinding.

Learn how to Change sheds

Warping rod shed: when the warping rod and string Heddle are together, the warping rod shed opens.

String Heddle Shed: push the warping bar back away from the string heddle. The string heddle should be @6” away from the edge of the weaving edge. 

Pull straight up on the string heddle rod. If threads are sticking, use your beater and beat the warp between the string heddles and warping bar.

Changing back to Warping Rod shed: pull the warping rod to just behind the String heddle rod. (Do not touch the string heddle rod). The warping shed will pop open.

Begin Weaving:

Start with either shed open.

Use your beater to keep the shed open. Slide it in the shed and turn on its side.

Slide one long thin cardboard strip into the first shed. 

Remove beater.

Change sheds. Slide the beater in to hold shed open.

Slide in 2nd cardboard strip.

Repeat one or two more times to even out threads and determine width.

Run the shuttle through the shed leaving a tail long enough to bring back through the shed plus a couple edges.. Bring it in close to the dowel. 

Remove beater 

Row two: change shed, slide in beater and beat. Bring the tail through this shed being careful not to pull too tightly. Next bring the shuttle through. Remove beater.

row 3: change shed, slip in beater. Beat. Fix weft thread at edge (the thread on the shuttle) if necessary. Pass the shuttle and let the thread create a 30* angle across the warp. Remove the beater, closing the shed.

Row 4: Change shed, slip in beater, beat. Pull the beater straight down - horizontal to the front rod. This allows enough slack in the weft so the edges will not be drawn in.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 for the rest of the project.

Shortening the Warp

As you weave, The fell (front edge of the weaving) gets farther and farther away. To shorten the distance and keep the weaving comfortable the fell must be brought back in towards your body. Unhook the weaving from your belt. Take a 2nd long dowel from your kit. Place the dowel under the first bar (where the warp is connected) and roll UNDER and away from you until the fell is again close to the front bar. To reconnect the backstrap belt, wrap the loop around the top dowel end on both sides. Loop it up close to your body or it will unwrap itself.

If you are doing a band, you may switch over to a band clamp at this point.  

Take the front rod (dowel) off.

The hooks face in - that’s where you attach your back-strap loops)

Bring the band over the top, 

down and back up in-between the two pieces of wood 

the tail end falls over the front of the clamp. 

Connect to your back-strap and put some pressure on it.

The band clamp allows for quick and easy shortening of the band as you work.  

Band Clamp: holes on left board are larger than where the hooks attach on the back board. Easily made. @6” across.

Ending the weave

After throwing the shuttle on the 2nd to last row, 

Slip a scrap yarn that when doubled over will extend out both sides of the weaving through the shed next to the weft thread. 

The end with the loop on the side goes where the shuttle will come out after the next pass.

Change sheds, beat, pass the shuttle. 

If a hemstitch will be used for the finish, leave a tail 4 widths of the weaving plus a bit and clip the weft. 

Pass a couple inches through the scrap yarn loop.

Pull the ends of the loop. Be careful the weft is t pulled out of the loop!

This will pull the weft back through the warp, locking the weaving in place so it won’t unravel.

Wet finish should be exactly the way your finished item will be washed and dried.  Sample first and keep careful records!

Be sure to use a steam iron and block your work.

I often dry flat on a towel.

Finishing

There are many ways to finish.

You may want a fringe. Just tie overhand knots using the exposed warp threads

Sewn hem: run two rows of straight stitch near the end on the weaving. Then fold over, or double fold and machine or hand stitch the edge.

There is a lovely edge finish called Hemstitching

Thread the yarn tail. Onto your tapestry needle and bring it over 4 ends than then down between those ends and the rest of the warp. Pass your needle behind these 4 warp ends and through the loop that’s been created by the start of the tail. Pull tight. Repeat across.

Books

You do not need the “looms” they are talking about. Your backstrap loom can be used for all of the techniques shown in these two books. The first is mainly for balanced weaves and the second for Warp faced bands.

Inventive Weaving on a Little Loom by Syne Mitchell

The Weavers Inkle Pattern Directory by Anne Dixon

Bands are also called inkles. As for the inkle loom, yes I have one that I built. I learned how to use it. I don’t like it. I find it even slower and oxy to use, unless… There is no place to anchor the back end of my weaving. Then I will use it to hold my weaving, but I use a little rigid heddle or cards on it, so my advise is: don’t waste your time or money

If you need a cheat sheet for changing sheds, print this out and use it while you weave.

Changing Sheds

1. Pass the Shuttle
2. Pinky in weft loop, pull pinky toward you until weft meets weaving edge
3. (Balanced weave) 30-45* angle on weft through weaving
4. Pinch with thumb and index finger at edge, pull. 
5. Remove beater
6. Change shed: Either - push Warp Rod away and pull up string heddle rod, OR pull warping rod toward you
7. Replace Beater
8. Beat - use both hands. Keep the weaving horizontal with the front rod.
9. Gently push beater away  and turn on its side to hold the shed open.